G.B. Burlotto - A Verduno Star Reborn
May 05, 2025
To the uninitiated, G.B. Burlotto might seem like an overnight sensation—a cult name whispered across restaurant floors and sommelier circles. But behind the recent surge in reverence in American boutiques lies one of Barolo’s most historic and pioneering estates. Founded in the 19th century, Burlotto’s wines—especially the transcendent Monvigliero—are now among the most coveted bottles in the world. Yet the magic here extends well beyond Nebbiolo: Burlotto’s Barbera and Dolcetto rank among the finest expressions of these Piedmontese farmer grapes, and their work with the once nearly extinct Pelaverga grape helped ignite a quiet revolution.
Our story begins with Giovan Battista Burlotto, who established the estate in the village of Verduno in the mid-1800s. Over his 70-year winemaking career (1850–1927), G.B. earned a reputation that placed him in the rarefied company of names like Biondi-Santi and Vega Sicilia. He was a visionary: at a time when it was virtually unheard of for Italian producers—and even many in Burgundy—to bottle their own wine, he insisted on doing just that, affixing his name to every label. This was no small gesture. It was a revolutionary declaration of intent, of quality, and of place. In fact, Burlotto’s estate-bottled Barolo predates even Giacomo Conterno’s legendary Monfortino.
The Royal House of Savoy took notice, naming Burlotto an official supplier—bringing prestige not just to the man, but to the quiet village of Verduno.
Ever forward-thinking, G.B. Burlotto acquired a sizable portion of Monvigliero, now regarded as Verduno’s grand cru and the flagship of the estate. He also secured parcels in Cannubi—Barolo’s most storied site—long before the region had formal appellation status. Today, the estate spans 30 acres: 5 in Monvigliero, 19 more across Verduno, and the rest split between the great cru Cannubi and the rest in the commune of Roddi.
In 1927, the estate passed to G.B.’s son Francesco, whose passion for Pelaverga helped rescue the grape from the brink of extinction. Decades later, his daughter Gabriella took up the cause, planting the first dedicated Pelaverga vineyard in 1972 and producing one of the first varietal bottlings. Soon several other local producers like Castello di Verduno and Fratelli Alessandria sourced cuttings from Burlotto, and slowly, Pelaverga’s renaissance began. Today, the grape is coveted for its vivid aromatics, lifted spice, and delicate red fruit—a wine that’s been likened to Italy’s answer to cru Beaujolais, albeit much rarer. Verduno now has its own DOC for the grape, though with just 74 acres under vine, bottles remain scarce.
Despite the family’s efforts, both the estate and the village slipped into relative obscurity in the second half of the 20th century, overshadowed by the rising stars of La Morra and Monforte d’Alba. That is, until Fabio Alessandria—G.B.’s great-great-grandson—took the reins.
Under Fabio’s hand, Burlotto has reemerged as a benchmark for traditional Barolo. His wines are classically made yet pulsing with life: fragrant, pure, and hauntingly expressive. Today, the estate produces five Barolos—Monvigliero, Cannubi, Castelleto, Acclivi (a blend from across the Verduno vineyards, including Monvigliero), and a beautiful Barolo normale. There’s also a Langhe Nebbiolo made from the same vineyards as the Barolos but aged for a shorter time in wood, showcasing Fabio’s deft touch with young Nebbiolo.
Beyond that, the estate crafts compelling bottlings of Barbera, Dolcetto, and Freisa—grapes that too often play second fiddle, but here are given the spotlight they deserve. A distinctive Sauvignon Blanc and the jewel-like Pelaverga round out the lineup, each a testament to Burlotto’s embrace of both tradition and terroir.
What once was lost is now reborn—Verduno, and Burlotto with it, are firmly back on the map.
